Marche to Umbria: eight slow days of wine and table
Urbino, the Conero coast and Spoleto, with one car, three bases and driving that ends before dinner. Built for two, with food first and no rushing between sights.
- DatesThu April 8 to Thu April 15, 2027
- BasesUrbino 2 nights, Sirolo 2, Spoleto 3
- CarPesaro pickup, Spoleto return
- Wine stopsTerracruda, Pievalta, Caprai
The week at a glance
| Date | Night | Driving | Food and wine anchor |
|---|---|---|---|
| Thu Apr 8 | Urbino | Train Sanremo to Pesaro, then 40 min | Antica Osteria Da la Stella |
| Fri Apr 9 | Urbino | About 1 h 40 round trip | Palazzo Ducale; Terracruda tasting |
| Sat Apr 10 | Sirolo (Conero) | About 2 h (3 h with the San Marino alternate) | Fano arch; La Moretta, Ancona (alternate: San Marino towers) |
| Sun Apr 11 | Sirolo (Conero) | About 30 min | Portonovo moscioli lunch |
| Mon Apr 12 | Spoleto | About 3 h 45 (Plan B 2 h 40) | Pievalta; vincisgrassi in Macerata |
| Tue Apr 13 | Spoleto | About 1 h 45 | Norcia; Granaro del Monte |
| Wed Apr 14 | Spoleto | About 1 h 30 | Montefalco; Caprai tasting |
| Thu Apr 15 | Rome (train) | About 40 min | Trevi olive oil; train from Spoleto |
Read this first
Corrections, changes and gaps.
What I could not verify (please check)
- Train timetables for April 2027 are not published yet. I used typical durations and flagged them as estimates.
- Opening hours and prices were read from listings dated between 2023 and October 2026. They can change before April 2027.
- I did not pick specific Airbnb listings; I could not see April 2027 availability. The Stay section gives search links and a checklist instead.
- Restaurants marked carried over come from the earlier pages: Trattoria del Leone, Il Cortegiano, La Torretta, Antica Osteria Da la Stella. I did not re-verify them or find reliable phone numbers.
- Drive times and tolls are my estimates unless stated. Confirm exits and routes in Google Maps the evening before each leg.
- Truffles: black truffle season ended March 15; April is bianchetto. The itinerary no longer relies on truffle hunts.
Driving for a cautious driver
What to know before the first turn of the key.
ZTL, the rule that costs money
- A ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato) has a sign with a red circle and cameras; entering when it is active triggers a fine mailed months later via the rental company, plus an admin fee.
- Urbino, Spoleto, Montefalco, Norcia, Fano and Macerata all have one. Park outside and walk, using the lifts, escalators and moving walkways that these towns provide.
- If your Airbnb is inside a ZTL, ask the host to register your plate before you arrive.
Parking colours
- Blue lines: paid, use the pay-and-display machine.
- White lines: free.
- Yellow: reserved, do not park.
- Covered garages let you pay when you leave.
Speed and roads
- Motorway (autostrada): 130 km/h, 110 in rain. The A14 has average-speed cameras.
- Divided superstrade (SS76, SS77): usually 90 to 110, signs vary.
- Other roads: 90 km/h; towns 50.
- Use dipped headlights outside towns, even in daytime. Do not stop in tunnels.
- Roundabouts: yield to traffic already in the circle, indicate when exiting.
Tolls and fuel
- Take a ticket at the toll gate on entering; pay at the exit using a lane marked with cards or cash. Avoid yellow Telepass lanes.
- Fuel: benzina is petrol, gasolio is diesel. Check the label inside the fuel flap.
- “Self” pumps are cheaper than “servito”.
Alcohol
- Legal limit 0.05%; zero for drivers under 21 or licensed less than three years.
- Schedule tastings at 15:00 or later when you drive afterwards, and decide who drives at lunch.
Mountain and weather notes
- Colfiorito pass on the SS77 (about 750 m): fog is possible.
- Forca di Cerro (about 733 m): winding, quiet.
- The Portonovo descent is steep and winding.
- Drive these in daylight only.
In the car and in an emergency
- Your rental should carry a warning triangle and a high-visibility vest. Check before you leave the lot.
- Emergency: 112. Police 113. Ambulance 118. Use the roadside-assistance number on your rental contract first.
- Photograph the car on pickup, including wheels and bumpers, and again at return.
- Use a phone mount; holding a phone while driving is illegal.
- When a faster car tailgates, find a safe lay-by and let it pass. Do not speed up to match it.
Rental car
What to book
- Dates: pick up in Pesaro on April 8 (afternoon); return in Spoleto on April 15 before 13:00.
- Car: a compact automatic, such as a Fiat Panda hybrid or VW T-Cross class. Narrow lanes favour small cars; automatics sell out, so book as soon as your train times are set.
- Cover: full damage waiver with a zero or low excess; a credit card for the deposit; an International Driving Permit with your US license.
- One-way: expect a one-way fee. Confirm it before paying.
Where
- AutoEurope: compares many brands for the Pesaro to Spoleto one-way.
- Hertz: has a confirmed office in Spoleto at Via Cerquiglia 144; check the Pesaro office and hours.
- Sixt and Europcar: check Pesaro and Spoleto availability for the same dates.
- Whichever you choose, read the confirmation for the exact drop-off address and hours in Spoleto.
Where to stay
Airbnb first, hotels as fallback.
UrbinoApr 8 to 10
Aim for an apartment just outside the old centre near Borgo Mercatale, Via Mazzini or Corso Garibaldi, where the lift and garage are minutes away. Apartments inside the walls can be great but are on steep streets inside the ZTL.
Must-haves for this base
- Parking at the garage within a short walk (or the host registers your plate for the ZTL).
- A ground-floor entrance or a lift, because of luggage and steep streets.
- Heating (April nights are about 6 to 8°C) and a fridge for provisions.
Fallback hotels
Albergo Italia and Mamiani Hotel & Spa (from the earlier page), or Hotel Raffaello in Via Santa Margherita. Check parking at each.
Sirolo (Conero)Apr 10 to 12
Stay in or just below Sirolo’s old centre so that dinner is on foot. If Sirolo is full or costly, try Ancona for more restaurants but busier driving.
Must-haves for this base
- Own parking or a clearly marked free spot; Sirolo’s centre is tight.
- Walking distance to the restaurants listed for April 10 and 11.
- Check-in around 17:00 on Saturday (you arrive from Ancona).
Fallback hotels
I have not verified Sirolo hotels; Hotel Monteconero sits up the mountain on a winding road, so I would not choose it as a cautious driver.
SpoletoApr 12 to 15
Look near Piazza della Libertà or along the escalator route, or just outside the walls near the Posterna and Spoletosfera car parks. This keeps the car out of the ZTL and puts you minutes from dinner.
Must-haves for this base
- Parking at Posterna or Spoletosfera within a short walk, or a private spot.
- Not at the top of a steep hill without a lift.
- Washer and heating; you have three nights.
Fallback hotels
Hotel dei Duchi or Hotel San Luca (from the earlier page). Check parking at each.
Train north, then the car to Urbino
Sanremo to Pesaro is the one long travel day, and it is by train. Collect the car only when you reach Pesaro, then keep the evening to a short drive, a walk and dinner.
Plan for the day
- Sanremo station. First leg to Genova Piazza Principe. Fastest direct trains take 1 h 42; the average is about 2 h 14.
- Genova to Milano Centrale (roughly 1.5 h, estimate). Change to the Frecciarossa that runs Milano, Bologna, Pesaro (Milan-to-Pescara services stop in Pesaro).
- Arrive Pesaro station. Taxi to the rental office and collect the automatic compact (see the rental box below).
- Drive to Urbino (36 km, about 40 min). Park in the Borgo Mercatale garage and take the lift up to the centre.
- Check in. Walk Piazza della Repubblica and Corso Garibaldi, then see the Palazzo Ducale facade in late light.
- Dinner at Antica Osteria Da la Stella (below).
Sanremo to Pesaro by train
- Shape of the trip: Sanremo, Genova Piazza Principe, Milano Centrale, Pesaro. Plan for about 7 to 8 hours with connections (estimate).
- Why not 5 hours: the earlier Marche-Abruzzo page quoted 5 to 5.5 hours using a Genova to Bologna Frecciarossa. I could not confirm that connection, so I have not planned around it.
- Fallback from Milan: Milano to Bologna is about 1 h 12 on the Frecciarossa, then Bologna to Pesaro runs from about 1 h 15 (fast) to 2 h (regional).
- Connections: leave at least 25 to 30 minutes at Genova and Milano. Both stations have stairs; pack light.
- Tickets: Trenitalia or Italo. Italian rail fares usually open about four months ahead, which puts April 8 around December 2026 (verify). I could not see April 2027 timetables, so pick the exact trains then.
Rental pickup in Pesaro
- The earlier plan used Hertz Pesaro, Via Sandro Pertini 2404 (not re-verified). Check how far it is from the station and what hours it keeps.
- Italian rental desks often close in the middle of the day. Hertz Spoleto, for example, lists weekday hours of 09:00 to 13:00 and 16:00 to 19:00. Choose a pickup time that matches your actual train.
- Book an automatic, one-way to Spoleto, with full damage cover. Compare on AutoEurope, then check Hertz, Sixt and Europcar directly. Details are in the Rental section.
The drive
Pesaro to Urbino
Route
- From the rental office follow signs for Urbino / SS423 (Strada Statale Urbinate).
- Stay on SS423 west for about 36 km through rolling hills. It is a normal two-lane road; settle in behind a slower vehicle and do not overtake.
- Near Urbino follow Parcheggi signs, not Centro Storico. Destination: Parcheggio Borgo Mercatale, Piazzale Mercatale (a covered garage at the foot of the walls).
Driver notes
- Urbino’s old town is a ZTL with four camera gates (Via Matteotti, Via delle Mura, Porta Santa Lucia, Piano del Monte). Do not drive in.
- Borgo Mercatale garage: about €1.80 for the first hour and €12 for the first day (€6 each extra day), paid when you leave. A public lift takes you up near the Palazzo Ducale; the cashier is open 07:00 to 20:00 Mon-Sat and 08:00 to 20:00 Sun. Prices are from the operator’s page and can change.
- Santa Lucia garage is the backup, with a lift too (about €10 first day).
- If your Airbnb is inside the walls, ask the host to register your plate before you arrive and park at Mercatale anyway.
Dinner
Antica Osteria Da la StellaDinner
Via Santa Margherita 1, Urbino
Run by Mamma Giovanna and her son Diego and known for homemade pasta. Order passatelli, a Marche pasta, and ask what the day’s vincisgrassi is. Book a table when you reserve the Airbnb.
Tel look up current number · Map
Photo moments (both on your evening walk)
The Torricini from below Borgo Mercatale
Walk out of the lift and look up: the twin round towers of the Palazzo Ducale rise over the walls. The 15th-century spiral ramp by Francesco di Giorgio Martini sits right at Borgo Mercatale. Best in the last hour of daylight (sunset in mid-April is around 7:45 to 8:00 PM).
Palazzo Ducale facade from Piazza Rinascimento
Two minutes from the main square; the late sun warms the brick. No driving needed from your lodging.
Map
Palazzo Ducale, then Bianchello wine at Terracruda
A museum morning, an easy lunch, and one afternoon tasting of the white and red wines that only this corner of the Marche makes.
Plan for the day
- Slow breakfast. Walk to the Palazzo Ducale (Piazza Rinascimento 13).
- Palazzo Ducale and Galleria Nazionale delle Marche. Highlights: the Laurana courtyard, the Duke’s studiolo with its inlaid wood, and paintings by Piero della Francesca (the Flagellation), Raphael and Uccello. Buy tickets (CoopCulture).
- Casa Natale di Raffaello, Raphael’s birthplace, about 20 minutes (the earlier page lists about €3).
- Lunch in Urbino (options below). Order crescia sfogliata with Casciotta di Urbino cheese or vincisgrassi.
- Collect the car at Borgo Mercatale and drive to Fratte Rosa (35 km, about 45 to 50 min).
- Cantina Terracruda tasting. Book the 15:00 slot (see tickets).
- Drive back to Urbino (about 45 to 50 min). Rest.
- Dinner at Il Cortegiano or Trattoria del Leone (below).
Tickets and tours
Palazzo Ducale / Galleria Nazionale delle Marche
- Open Tuesday to Sunday 08:30 to 19:15; the ticket office closes at 18:15 and the last entry is 60 minutes before closing. Closed Mondays.
- Full price €12, reduced €2 (EU citizens 18 to 25). Booking is optional, and tickets can also be bought at the door.
- Buy online (CoopCulture) · Museum site (gndm.it) · Phone +39 0722 322625.
- Prices and hours come from the museum and CoopCulture pages I read in October 2026. Recheck before you buy.
Cantina Terracruda, Fratte Rosa
- What it is: an organic winery making only native-grape wines: Bianchello del Metauro (a crisp white), Colli Pesaresi Sangiovese and Pergola Aleatico (a red). Its tasting room looks out over the hills.
- Booking: online at terracruda.it, by email info@terracruda.it, or by phone +39 0721 777412. Winery visits are by reservation.
- Price: published tastings run roughly €20 to €35 per person depending on the format. A typical “basic” tasting is about five wines with bruschetta, local cheeses and cured meats.
- Hours: an older listing shows weekday opening 09:00 to 13:00 and 14:00 to 18:30, but the seasonal hours change, so confirm your 15:00 slot in writing.
- Address: Via delle Serre 28, 61040 Fratte Rosa. Map.
Eat and drink
Trattoria del Leone (lunch or dinner)Lunch or dinner
Via C. Battisti 5, Urbino
A favourite for hearty Marche cooking: vincisgrassi, crescia sfogliata, local Verdicchio. Carried over from the earlier page; I did not re-check it.
Tel look up current number · Map
Il Cortegiano (dinner)Dinner
Via Puccinotti 13, Urbino
Refined local cooking; tagliatelle with truffle sauce and rabbit are the earlier picks. Carried over, not re-checked. Black truffle is out of season in April, so ask what truffle they use.
Tel look up current number · Map
Raffaello Degusteria (provisions)
Via Bramante, near Piazza della Repubblica, Urbino
A shop for Casciotta di Urbino, Prosciutto di Carpegna and wild boar salami. Buy for a picnic or the Airbnb fridge.
The drive
Urbino to Terracruda, Fratte Rosa and back
Route
- Leave the Borgo Mercatale garage and follow signs out of Urbino toward Fossombrone / Fano (SS73bis), then pick up the provincial roads toward Fratte Rosa.
- The winery is on the SP41 (Strada Provinciale 41) at Via delle Serre 28. Let Google Maps pick the last few turns, and preview the final approach in Street View.
- Return the same way.
Driver notes
- This is the one day with a lot of small provincial roads. Daylight, no night driving, and nothing is steeper than a normal hill road.
- Wine and driving: Italy’s limit is 0.05% blood alcohol. Taste in small pours, spit, or have one person pass on the glass; this is why the tasting is at 15:00 rather than late.
- If a pour feels like too much, ask the winery to call a taxi and come back for the car in the morning.
Photo moments
The Laurana courtyard (inside the Palazzo Ducale)
The Renaissance courtyard is the most photogenic room in the museum and is on your route in the morning. Ask whether tripods or flash are allowed before you shoot.
Terracruda’s tasting-room view
The renovated tasting room looks across the hills of Fratte Rosa. Take the photo with a glass on the table and no extra driving.
Map
If it rains
Stay with the museum for a full half day, drive to Terracruda in the afternoon as planned (wine is an indoor activity), and skip the Raphael house if you are tired.
Fano’s Roman arch, Ancona’s stockfish, and the Conero
A moving day with real stops: a coffee at a Roman arch, a historic Ancona lunch of stoccafisso and brodetto, and a calm evening in a hill village above the sea. An alternate version that adds San Marino is in the expandable box below the plan.
Plan for the day
- Check out. Collect the car from the Borgo Mercatale garage.
- Fano: the Roman Arco d’Augusto (2 BC), one of the best-preserved in Italy, a five-minute walk from parking. Coffee and a cornetto in the piazza (about 45 min).
- Drive Fano to Ancona (A14, about 40 min plus parking).
- Lunch at La Moretta dal 1897, Piazza del Plebiscito 52. Book 12:45.
- Walk Ancona: the cathedral hill and the Passetto (see photo moments). Allow about 90 min.
- Drive to Sirolo (about 25 to 30 min). Check in about 17:00.
- Walk Sirolo’s old centre and the sea terrace; aperitivo.
- Dinner in Sirolo (below).
Alternate Saturday: add San Marino (adds about 1 hour of driving)
Alternate plan for the day
- Check out. Collect the car from the Borgo Mercatale garage.
- Drive to San Marino (about 70 km, about 1 h 15, estimate).
- Park at P11 in Borgo Maggiore and ride the cable car up to the old town. The cable car opens at 07:45 daily and runs about every 15 minutes.
- Guaita and Cesta towers. Do Guaita first, then walk the Witches’ Path to Cesta. Take a look at Piazza della Libertà and the Palazzo Pubblico. Budget two to three hours for both towers.
- A light piadina or snack only. Save your appetite for Ancona.
- Cable car down and drive to Ancona (about 110 km, 1 h 20 to 1 h 30, estimate).
- Late lunch at La Moretta dal 1897 (Piazza del Plebiscito 52, +39 071 202317). Phone before you leave San Marino to confirm the kitchen is open. If you will arrive after about 14:45, skip it and eat in Sirolo instead.
- Drive to Sirolo (25 to 30 min). Check in about 16:30.
- Sirolo walk and aperitivo, then dinner as in the main plan.
Tickets and practical details
San Marino towers and cable car
- Towers: Guaita and Cesta are the two you can climb; Montale is closed to visitors. A combined Guaita plus Cesta ticket was listed at €9 in 2026 guides (older pages show lower prices, so expect €9). The ticket also covers the Palazzo Pubblico and other state museums per one guide. Pay at the gate; I found no official online booking.
- Hours: sources disagree. One 2026 guide lists 10:00 to 17:50 for the period that includes April, while others say 9:00 to 17:00. Plan to arrive by 10:00 and confirm the week before.
- Cable car: Cableway page (times, fares, stations). Fares differ by source (roughly €3 to €4 single, €5 to €7 return), so pay at the station.
- Passport stamp: about €5 at the tourist office in Piazza della Libertà (optional souvenir). Carry your passports; San Marino is a separate country.
- Links: Three towers: tickets, hours, tips · Search for official museum tickets · Guaita on the map · Cesta on the map
Parking
- P11 (recommended): the cable-car car park in Piazzale Campo della Fiera, Borgo Maggiore. You avoid driving up to the old town. Parking guide with all lots
- P9: a large car park with lifts into the historic centre; listed at €1.50 for one hour, €3 for two, €4.50 for three to five and €8 for the day.
- Arrive near 10:00 and you should find space in April; the lots fill mainly in summer and at weekends.
- Ask the rental company to confirm that your agreement allows driving into San Marino.
The drives
Urbino to San Marino (Borgo Maggiore)
Route
- The earlier page routes this on the SP258 and SS72, heading toward the San Marino side of the Marecchia valley. Let Google Maps pick the road and follow the signs for San Marino and then Borgo Maggiore.
- Do not follow signs up into the old town. Park at P11, Piazzale Campo della Fiera, and take the cable car.
Driver notes
- Daylight, mid-morning, mostly ordinary provincial road. The final climbs toward the mountain are steep, which is why you park below.
- There is normally no border control, but carry your passports.
San Marino to Ancona
Route
- Come down to Rimini on the SS72, join the A14 south toward Ancona, and take the Ancona Nord exit. Follow signs for Centro / Porto.
- Park in a paid garage near the port or Piazza del Plebiscito and walk to La Moretta. Avoid the ZTL streets.
Driver notes
- Same A14 rules as the main plan: take a ticket on entry, pay at the exit in a card or cash lane, avoid the yellow Telepass lanes, stay in the right lane.
- If you are running late for lunch, phone the restaurant before the motorway, not while driving.
Ancona to Sirolo is the same drive as in the main plan above.
Photo moments (both on foot in the old town)
The Witches’ Path between Guaita and Cesta
A paved ridge walk between the two towers with views on both sides. It is free and stays open outside tower hours. Walk it in the mid-morning light.
Guaita’s battlements
From the top of the first tower you look over the hills to the Adriatic on a clear day. Photograph from the battlements, not from the road.
Map
Eat and drink
Ristorante Trattoria La Moretta dal 1897Lunch
Piazza del Plebiscito 52, Ancona
Family-run since 1897 and nicknamed the “Tempio dello Stoccafisso” for its stoccafisso all’anconetana (dried cod with potatoes, olives and tomato). Also order brodetto all’anconetana. Saturday lunch is open on every source I found; Sunday hours conflict across sources, which is why this is on Saturday.
L’Osteria (Sirolo)Dinner
Via Dante Alighieri 6, Sirolo
Popular, so reserve; wood-fired pizza and seafood. Many Sirolo places are closed Monday evenings.
Osteria Sara (Sirolo)Dinner or lunch
Piazza Vittorio Veneto 9, Sirolo
Seafood and seasonal traditional dishes on the main piazza; listed hours 12:30 to 22:00.
Tel +39 071 933 0716 · Map
Ristorante La Taverna (Sirolo)Dinner
Centre of Sirolo
Known for strozzapreti with olives, capers and bluefish and for spaghetti with moscioli, near a sea-view terrace.
The drives
Urbino to Fano
Route
- From Urbino take the SS73bis (Bocca Trabaria road) east toward Fossombrone and Fano. Follow signs for Fano and then Centro / Arco d’Augusto.
- Park in a paid lot outside the centre (blue-line spaces are paid) and walk to the arch.
Driver notes
- Fano’s centre has a ZTL; do not drive in.
- Expect a mix of faster divided road and ordinary two-lane road. Preview the route in Street View and stay at the posted limit.
Fano to Ancona
Route
- Join the A14 (Autostrada Adriatica) south at Fano. Take the Ancona Nord exit and follow signs for Ancona Centro / Porto.
- Park in a paid garage near the port or Piazza del Plebiscito (look at Google Maps satellite view first and pick one with a short walk). Avoid the ZTL streets.
Driver notes
- On the A14 take a ticket at the toll gate on entry and pay at the exit: use a lane marked with a card or cash symbol. Do not use yellow Telepass lanes.
- The A14 limit is 130 km/h (110 in rain). Stay in the right lane; faster cars will pass.
- Ancona is the busiest driving of the trip. If a one-way lane or tunnel looks wrong, pull over and recheck rather than turn suddenly.
Ancona to Sirolo
Route
- Leave Ancona south on SS16 (Adriatica) toward Camerano and Sirolo, then follow the Monte Conero / Sirolo signs up the hill.
- Park outside the old centre of Sirolo (the lot signs are clear) and walk up. Your Airbnb host should say where to leave the car.
Driver notes
- The last few kilometres are a quiet hill road; drive it in daylight (you will arrive about 17:00).
- Sunset is around 7:45 to 8:00 PM, so the dinner walk is in the last light.
Photo moments (both on today’s route)
Arco d’Augusto, Fano
The Roman arch sits right in the city. Photograph it from the piazza side with morning light; it is a five-minute walk from parking.
The Passetto, Ancona
The white staircase that drops to the sea below the city is a short walk from the cathedral hill (San Ciriaco). Go late afternoon for the light on the cliff. This is on foot from the centre, no extra drive.
Map: Urbino to Fano, Ancona and Sirolo
A slow Conero day: Sirolo, Portonovo and wild mussels
The slowest day of the trip. Sleep in, walk a hill village, eat moscioli (the wild Portonovo mussels) for a long lunch, and let the evening be dinner and nothing else.
Plan for the day
- Breakfast and a slow walk in Sirolo: Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the terrace over the sea, the old centre.
- Drive to Portonovo (about 15 min). Park at the bay and walk down.
- Lunch: moscioli at Da Giacchetti or another Portonovo restaurant (below). Book a table.
- Walk the bay: the Napoleonic fort and the small Romanesque church of Santa Maria di Portonovo.
- Optional: Umani Ronchi in Osimo for Rosso Conero (Via Adriatica 12, +39 071 7108716). Check Sunday availability, or buy Rosso Conero at a shop instead.
- Aperitivo in Sirolo.
- Dinner in Sirolo (a different restaurant from last night).
Eat and drink
Ristorante da Giacchetti dal 1959Lunch
Località Portonovo 171, Portonovo (Ancona)
Beachfront since 1959, opened by two fishing brothers; the menu features the Portonovo wild mosciolo. Confirm they are open: one listing I found showed a temporary-closure note, and Sunday hours differ between listings (lunch from 12:30 on two of them). Backups in the same bay are Ristorante Emilia and Ristorante Marcello (both long-standing moscioli places, not re-checked).
A second Sirolo dinner
Choose from L’Osteria, Osteria Sara or La Taverna (see April 10)
Book a different one than Saturday’s. Ask for moscioli or the day’s fish.
About moscioli
Moscioli are wild mussels that grow only in the Portonovo bay (a Slow Food presidium). They are harvested from about April to August, so your visit is early in the season; ask whether they are on the menu that day. The classic preparations are scoppiati (opened in a hot pan), alla marinara (oil, garlic, lemon, pepper), and in pasta with a mosciolo sauce.
The drive
Sirolo to Portonovo and back
Route
- Leave Sirolo toward Poggio / Portonovo on the Conero road and follow signs to Baia di Portonovo.
- The last stretch descends to the bay on a winding road. Take it slowly in low gear and park at the bay lot.
Driver notes
- Drive in daylight only; you will go down at about 12:30 and come back by about 16:30.
- Parking can fill in summer but April is quiet.
Photo moments
Portonovo bay and the Fortino Napoleonico
A bay of white pebbles with the Napoleonic fort on the water and Monte Conero behind it. Walk the shore at 15:00 when the light is soft.
Sirolo’s sea terrace
The village sits above the sea; the terrace beside the main piazza gives you the cliffs and the water in one frame. Go for the last half hour of light before aperitivo.
Map
Verdicchio at Pievalta, vincisgrassi in Macerata, then Spoleto
The longest drive of the trip and the day the itinerary crosses from the Marche into Umbria. It is split into three legs with a winery and a signature lunch in between.
Plan for the day (Plan A)
- Check out of Sirolo. Check the fuel type (benzina = petrol, gasolio = diesel) and fill up before leaving the coast.
- Drive to Maiolati Spontini (about 55 min, estimate).
- Pievalta winery visit, Via Monteschiavo 18: vineyard walk, cellar, then five wines on the veranda with vineyard views.
- Drive to Macerata (about 1 h 15 to 1 h 30 depending on route).
- Lunch: vincisgrassi in Macerata (below). Monday: phone ahead.
- Optional 20-minute stroll to the Sferisterio, Macerata’s neoclassical open-air arena.
- Drive to Spoleto (about 1 h 30).
- Park at Posterna, check in, drop bags.
- Walk to the Ponte delle Torri in golden light.
- Dinner at Osteria del Matto (below).
Plan B: skip Macerata (saves about 70 min of driving)
From Pievalta, drive west on the SS76 through Fabriano to the Umbria border, then the SS3 Flaminia via Foligno to Spoleto (about 1 h 40, estimate). Eat vincisgrassi at a trattoria near Pievalta; ask the winery for a recommendation when you book. Choose Plan B if the weather is poor, someone is tired, or Pievalta only offers a later slot.
Tickets and tours
Pievalta, Maiolati Spontini
- Visit and tasting: about 2 hours; vineyard visit, cellar visit, guided tasting of five wines; €25 per person; Italian and English. A 30-minute “smart tasting” also exists.
- Estate: biodynamic Verdicchio of the Castelli di Jesi, on slopes around Maiolati Spontini, Montecarotto, San Paolo di Jesi and Cupramontana.
- Book: pievalta.it · pievalta@baronepizzini.it · +39 0731 705199. The wine shop runs Monday to Friday, which is why this is a Monday visit, but confirm the 10:00 slot in writing.
- Address: Via Monteschiavo 18, 60030 Maiolati Spontini (AN). Map
Eat and drink
Osteria Agnese (Macerata)Lunch
Via Edmondo de Amicis 1, Macerata
Reviewers call it the best in the city for Maceratese cooking, with vincisgrassi. Vincisgrassi alla maceratese has held EU Traditional Specialty Guaranteed status since 2022.
Osteria dei Fiori (Macerata)Lunch
Via Lauro Rossi 61, Macerata
Traditional Maceratese dishes inside the walls near the Sferisterio; reserve ahead. Backup if Agnese is closed Monday.
Osteria del Matto (Spoleto)Dinner
Piazza del Mercato / Vicolo del Mercato 3, Spoleto
A set menu of about 10 to 12 plates for around €25 (house wine is cheap by the half litre): whatever the family bought that day, ending with the pasta. Confirm it is open on Monday and book.
Tel +39 0743 225506 · Map
The drives
Sirolo to Pievalta, Maiolati Spontini
Route
- Leave Sirolo toward Ancona on the SS16, then take the SS76 west (Superstrada Ancona to Fabriano) toward Jesi / Fabriano.
- Leave the SS76 at the exit for Maiolati Spontini (also signed Moie) and follow signs to Monteschiavo. The winery is at Via Monteschiavo 18.
Driver notes
- The SS76 is a divided superstrada; stay at the posted limit and keep to the right lane.
- Confirm the exit number in Google Maps the night before.
Pievalta to Macerata
Route
- For a cautious drive pick the divided-highway route Google offers: SS76 east, A14 south to Civitanova Marche, SS77 west to Macerata. Or choose the inland provincial roads if you prefer no toll; they are slower and have more bends.
- Follow signs for Macerata centro; park outside the walls (Macerata has a ZTL) and walk in.
Driver notes
- Take a ticket at the A14 entry and pay at the exit (card or cash lane; not the yellow Telepass lanes).
- Allow time to park: the walk to either osteria is short.
Macerata to Spoleto
Route
- Take the SS77 (Val di Chienti) west from Macerata toward Foligno. It is a free divided road with tunnels and a pass at Colfiorito.
- At Foligno join the SS3 Flaminia south toward Spoleto. Take the exit signed Spoleto Sud / Centro and follow signs to the Posterna car park (Viale Martiri della Resistenza).
Driver notes
- Colfiorito sits at roughly 750 m; April fog is possible. Slow down in the tunnels, keep your lights on and do not stop in them.
- Spoleto’s historic centre is largely a ZTL. Park at Posterna (452 covered spaces, open 24/7) or Spoletosfera (414 covered spaces); Ponzianina is a small open lot. Free covered walkways and escalators carry you up from each lot.
Photo moments
Pievalta’s veranda over the vineyards
Tastings take place on a veranda with panoramic views of the vines. The golden-hour window will be gone by then, but the light is soft before noon.
Ponte delle Torri at golden hour
From Posterna ride the covered walkways up to the Rocca end (Piazza Campello), then take the gentle path along Via Gattapone to the bridge, about 10 to 15 minutes on foot. The medieval aqueduct bridge spans a deep gorge and is at its best in the last hour of light.
Map
Norcia, the town of cured meats and lentils
A day trip into the Valnerina to the home of Umbrian salumi, pecorino and lentils, with one Bib Gourmand lunch and an early return to Spoleto.
Plan for the day
- Leave Spoleto for Norcia (about 45 to 55 min).
- Park outside the walls and walk in. Coffee.
- Piazza San Benedetto and the town centre. Several buildings were damaged in the 2016 earthquake, so check what is open.
- Norcinerie (cured-meat shops), cheese, and Castelluccio lentils. Norcineria Da Mastro Peppe is a well-rated specialty shop.
- Lunch at Granaro del Monte (Michelin Bib Gourmand), Via Alfieri 12. Or book Vespasia (one Michelin star) for a dressier meal.
- Last shopping, then drive back.
- Back in Spoleto. Rest.
- Dinner at Tempio del Gusto (below). Apollinare is closed Tuesdays, which is why it is booked for Wednesday.
Eat and drink
Granaro del MonteLunch
Via Alfieri 12, Norcia
A Michelin Bib Gourmand trattoria in the centre. Order the Norcia charcuterie, a lentil dish and a pasta; the venue also brews beer.
Ristorante Vespasia (splurge)Lunch
Palazzo Seneca, Norcia
Holds one Michelin star. Book well ahead if you want it; I did not find a verified direct link.
Provisions and customs
- Meat and dairy: US rules on bringing meat home are strict, and cured pork from Italy is generally restricted. Check US Customs (CBP) and USDA guidance before you buy salumi to carry. Eating it in Norcia is the safe plan.
- Lentils and hard cheese: usually easier, but declare food on your customs form.
- Liquids: olive oil and wine must go in checked luggage, not carry-on.
The drive
Spoleto to Norcia and back
Route
- Route A (shortest): Forca di Cerro. Leave Spoleto north-east on the road toward Forca di Cerro and continue to Norcia. The pass is at about 733 m, winding, with little traffic.
- Route B: the Valnerina valley road (SS685). Longer, with tunnels and more trucks. One local cycling guide describes a 7 to 8 km stretch of the SS685 as busy and risky for riders, which matters less in a car but means you should not dawdle in the tunnels.
- Preview both in Google Street View tonight and choose the one you are comfortable with.
Driver notes
- Drive both ways in daylight. Leave Norcia by about 15:30.
- Park outside the walls (follow the P signs); the centre has a ZTL.
- This is an earthquake-affected area. Some roads can have temporary works; check Google Maps traffic for closures that morning.
Photo moments
Piazza San Benedetto
The statue of Saint Benedict, the Gothic-style town hall and the church facade are all within one frame. Check which parts of the church are restored; photograph from the piazza edge.
Norcineria windows
Hanging salumi, wheels of pecorino and lentil sacks make a classic Umbrian still life on the town’s shop streets. Ask before photographing the staff.
Map
Spoleto sights, then Sagrantino in Montefalco
A morning of Spoleto sights followed by a Montefalco lunch, a frescoed museum, a winery tasting and a stop in Bevagna. A long, gentle afternoon of wine.
Plan for the day
- Park at Posterna (or walk from your Airbnb). Ride the covered walkways to Piazza Campello.
- Rocca Albornoziana and the Museo Nazionale del Ducato (about 45 min). Then the Duomo (Filippo Lippi frescoes) and the piazza in front of it.
- Drive to Montefalco (about 35 min).
- Lunch at Olevm, Corso Mameli 55. Book.
- Complesso museale di San Francesco, with Benozzo Gozzoli’s fresco cycle (about 20 min).
- Arnaldo Caprai tasting (see tickets). Drive about 10 min from town (estimate).
- Bevagna: Piazza Silvestri and its two Romanesque churches (optional, about 45 min).
- Drive back to Spoleto (about 35 min).
- Dinner at Apollinare.
Tickets and tours
Arnaldo Caprai, Montefalco
- Tour and food: a vineyard walk, a winery visit and an informal tasting at the counter of three wines; daily slots at 10:30, 12:00, 15:00 and 16:30; 1.5 hours; €35 per person; booking required.
- Book on arnaldocaprai.it
Smaller estates, if you prefer
- Scacciadiavoli: the oldest winery in the area, founded 1884. Search for booking details
- Tabarrini: family-run, artisanal Sagrantino, advance booking needed. Search for booking details
- Paolo Bea: boutique estate making cult wines; one visitor said booking needed emails in Italian. Search for booking details
- Montioni (in town): a winery and oil mill at Viale della Vittoria 34. A 2-hour tour tastes five wines and two oils with cured meats and cheese; email tour@gabrielemontioni.it or phone +39 0742 379 214. The easiest choice with no drive between lunch and tasting.
Spoleto sights
- Rocca Albornoziana and Museo Nazionale del Ducato: map · search for current tickets
- Duomo (Santa Maria Assunta): map
- Ponte delle Torri (if you did not see it Monday): map
- Spoleto parking and walkways: Posterna car park (city page)
Eat and drink
Olevm (Montefalco)Lunch
Corso Goffredo Mameli 55, Montefalco
An osteria and oil-centred restaurant a few steps from the main square, set up in 2009 around olive oil; also known for Montefalco wines.
Ristorante Apollinare (Spoleto)Dinner
Via Sant’Agata 14, Spoleto
Listed in the Michelin Guide for Spoleto; contemporary Umbrian tasting menus in a timber-beamed room. Open daily for lunch and dinner except closed Tuesday.
Trattoria La Torretta (lunch alternative)Lunch
Via della Torretta, Spoleto
A cosy trattoria for homemade pasta and truffle dishes; carried over from the earlier page and not re-checked.
The drives
Spoleto to Montefalco
Route
- Take the SS3 Flaminia north from Spoleto and turn toward Montefalco on the signed provincial road.
- Park in the free lot outside the walls (a public lot sits at the top end of the wall by the Museo di San Francesco, and another at the bottom gate on Via Garibaldi). Walk uphill to Piazza del Comune.
Driver notes
- Montefalco’s centre has narrow streets; do not drive in.
- The visit starts after lunch, so you will drive home in the early evening, still in daylight.
Montefalco to Bevagna to Spoleto
Route
- From Montefalco follow signs to Bevagna, a short, easy road across the vineyards.
- Return to Spoleto the same way as the outbound route.
Driver notes
- Plan your tasting so that the person driving only sips; see the alcohol note below.
- Skip Bevagna if you are tired.
Alcohol and driving
Italy’s blood-alcohol limit is 0.05%, and it is zero for drivers under 21 or licensed less than three years. A tasting of three wines is small pours, but a lunch with wine plus a tasting plus dinner adds up. Decide on the driver at lunch, spit at tastings, or hire a local driver for the Montefalco afternoon.
Photo moments
The Balcony of Umbria, Montefalco
The ring of walls and the Piazza del Comune give long views over the Umbrian valley. Walk to the wall by the Museo di San Francesco after your museum visit.
Piazza Silvestri, Bevagna
Two Romanesque churches face each other across a fountain. Go at 18:15 when the square is nearly empty.
Map
Olive oil in Trevi, then the train to Rome
A last food stop with one more thing to taste, a relaxed car return, and a lunch before the train. The car goes back before the desk closes at 13:00.
Plan for the day
- Check out of Spoleto. Load the car and fill the tank near the rental office.
- Drive to Trevi (about 20 min, estimate).
- Frantoio Gaudenzi guided tour and olive oil tasting (about 1 to 1.5 h). Book at least 24 hours ahead.
- Drive back to Spoleto (about 20 min). Refuel.
- Return the car (see the note below on hours).
- Lunch in Spoleto (La Torretta or Sabatini, below).
- Taxi or bus down to the station, then the train to Roma Termini (the earlier plan quotes about 1 h 10 to 1 h 50 depending on the service; check Trenitalia).
Tickets and tours
Frantoio Gaudenzi, Trevi
- Guided mill tour and tasting of award-winning extra virgin oils plus local products such as honey. Formats run from 30 minutes to 4 hours; booking is required at least 24 hours ahead.
- Book on frantoiogaudenzi.it · Phone +39 0742 781107 · Fraz. Camporeale 6, Trevi.
- A listing shows weekday hours of about 08:00 to 13:00, but confirm your 09:00 slot.
Rental car return, Spoleto
- Hertz Spoleto, Via Cerquiglia 144 (tel +39 0743 47195): listed weekday hours 09:00 to 13:00 and 16:00 to 19:00, Sunday closed. April 15 is a Thursday, so return before 13:00.
- Hertz Spoleto page · Map
- If you book another company, verify its Spoleto drop-off location and hours in your confirmation.
Eat and drink
Sabatini (Spoleto)Lunch
Spoleto, Umbria
Reviewers praise a €30 tasting menu. Not re-checked for April 2027.
Trattoria La TorrettaLunch
Via della Torretta, Spoleto
Homemade pasta and truffle dishes. Carried over from the earlier page.
Take-home reminders
- Olive oil: liquids over the carry-on limit must go in checked luggage. You fly home on April 17, so wrap bottles well or buy at the end.
- Food customs: declare food and check CBP rules before buying meat or cheese to carry home.
The drives
Spoleto to Trevi and back
Route
- Take the SS3 Flaminia north from Spoleto to Trevi, then follow signs to Camporeale / Frantoio Gaudenzi.
- Return south on the SS3 to Spoleto.
Driver notes
- Short, easy daylight driving. Fill the tank after the oil mill, before you reach the rental office.
Photo moments
Trevi above the olive terraces
The hilltop town is shaped like a snail shell and ringed by olive groves. The mill sits at its foot, so you get the view from the car park with no extra driving.
Spoleto Duomo piazza
If you have 10 minutes before lunch, the cathedral facade and its steps are the last photo of the trip. Do it on foot from the centre.
Map
Booking timeline
In the order that things sell out.
| When | Book |
|---|---|
| As soon as dates are set (now) | Airbnb for all three bases; rental car (automatic, Pesaro to Spoleto one-way); travel insurance. |
| About four months before (around December 2026; verify) | Trains: Sanremo to Pesaro on April 8; Spoleto to Roma Termini on April 15. Compare Trenitalia and Italo. |
| January to February 2027 | Terracruda (Apr 9, 15:00); Pievalta (Apr 12, 10:00); Arnaldo Caprai or another Montefalco estate (Apr 14); Frantoio Gaudenzi (Apr 15; at least 24 hours ahead). |
| February to March 2027 | Restaurants: Da la Stella; La Moretta; Da Giacchetti; two Sirolo dinners; Agnese or Osteria dei Fiori; Osteria del Matto; Granaro del Monte; Tempio del Gusto; Olevm; Apollinare. |
| Three to four weeks before | Palazzo Ducale tickets for April 9 (optional but easy online). |
| Two weeks before | Reconfirm every booking in writing; screenshot confirmations; check the Norcia road and Portonovo restaurant openings. |
Reference
Phone numbers, food and a booking email you can paste.
Phone numbers
| Who | Phone | Email or site |
|---|---|---|
| Cantina Terracruda | +39 0721 777412 | info@terracruda.it |
| Pievalta | +39 0731 705199 | pievalta@baronepizzini.it |
| Arnaldo Caprai | book online | arnaldocaprai.it |
| Montioni (Montefalco) | +39 0742 379214 | tour@gabrielemontioni.it |
| Frantoio Gaudenzi | +39 0742 781107 | booking via website |
| Umani Ronchi (Osimo) | +39 071 7108716 | umanironchi.com |
| Palazzo Ducale, Urbino | +39 0722 322625 | gndm.it |
| CoopCulture ticket helpline | +39 06 39967996 (Mon-Fri 09:00-13:00) | |
| La Moretta, Ancona | +39 071 202317 | |
| Da Giacchetti, Portonovo | +39 071 801384 | info@ristorantedagiacchetti.it |
| L’Osteria, Sirolo | +39 071 933 0942 | |
| Osteria Sara, Sirolo | +39 071 933 0716 | |
| Osteria Agnese, Macerata | +39 0733 239898 | |
| Osteria dei Fiori, Macerata | +39 0733 260142 | |
| Osteria del Matto, Spoleto | +39 0743 225506 | |
| Tempio del Gusto, Spoleto | +39 0743 47121 | |
| Apollinare, Spoleto | +39 0743 223256 | |
| Olevm, Montefalco | +39 0742 379057 | info@olevm.it |
| Hertz Spoleto | +39 0743 47195 | |
| Emergency | 112 (police 113, ambulance 118) |
What to order and drink
Marche: order these
- Vincisgrassi: layered baked pasta; the Macerata version has EU TSG status.
- Brodetto: fish stew that changes town to town; Ancona’s version traditionally has thirteen kinds of seafood.
- Stoccafisso all’anconetana: dried cod with potatoes, olives, tomato.
- Moscioli: wild Portonovo mussels, April to August.
- Crescia sfogliata and Casciotta di Urbino: Urbino’s flatbread and its sheep-and-cow cheese.
- Ciauscolo: spreadable salami.
Marche wines
- Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi: almond-scented white; Pievalta, Bucci and Garofoli are standout producers.
- Bianchello del Metauro: a delicate coastal white (at least 95% Bianchello).
- Colli Pesaresi Sangiovese and Pergola Aleatico: local reds.
- Rosso Conero: Montepulciano-based red from around Ancona.
Umbria: order these
- Strangozzi: hand-rolled pasta, often with mushrooms or truffle.
- Norcia salumi, pecorino and Castelluccio lentils.
- Extra virgin olive oil from Trevi, Spoleto and Montefalco.
Umbria wines
- Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG: a very tannic red from a grape grown only here.
- Montefalco Rosso: the lighter blend.
- Grechetto and Trebbiano: local whites.
Booking email template
English
Hello, we are two visitors from the United States. We would like to book a visit and tasting on [DATE] at [TIME] for two people. We will arrive by car. Is the booking possible in English, what is the price, and is any food included? Please confirm by email. Thank you.
Italiano
Buongiorno, siamo due persone e vorremmo prenotare una visita con degustazione il [DATA] alle ore [ORA]. Arriveremo in auto. È possibile avere la visita in inglese, qual è il prezzo e sono inclusi dei prodotti da mangiare? Vi chiediamo di confermare via email. Grazie mille.